Tourism began in the early ‘70s. Development and change in Pokhara has been relatively rapid and modern. Historically, Pokhara was an important village, being one of the old trading routes between India and Tibet. A chequered history of Chaubise Rajya (little kingdoms) under Kaski and later with Shah Dynasty, it invited Newars from the valley to promote trade and commerce in the 18th century. It is an important meeting point of two ethnic groups, Buddhist Gurung, Magars, and Thakalis from the surrounding hills and other Hindu castes from other parts of Nepal.
Fewa lake is perhaps the best single attraction of Pokhara. 4.4 square km large, it is the second largest lake in Nepal, and the most enchanting of the seven lakes in Pokhara. Boats can be hired to cross the water or to visit Barahi island temple in its middle. Barahi temple is a two storied pagoda temple of the goddess Ajima.

The north-eastern shore of Fewa Lake is known as the Lakeside. It is a favourite tourist location with sprawling hotels, restaurants, shops, banks and various offices. The shore has developed into one of the major tourist hubs of Nepal. Boats can be hired for a ride on the lake. Sarangkot, at an altitude of 1592m, is a stunning vantage point to experience breathtaking magnificent panorama of mountains with spectacular sunrises and sunsets. A former Kaski fort on a hilltop is also famous for those who are brave enough to paraglide. The trip gives a bird’s eye view of the mountains, Seti river, Fewa lake, and the valley itself. World Peace Pagoda, is on the top of a hill on the southern shore of Fewa lake. It is at an altitude of 1,113 metre and yet another magnificent vantage point for viewing the mountains. On the north-eastern part of Pokhara, there is a modest monastery.

Seti Gandaki, the boisterous river, divides Pokhara almost into two halves. At certain places, the river is only a couple of metres wide. It rumbles underground and has made a deep gorge by its powerful flow. Devi’s fall, where Fewa Lake thunders into gigantic hole and then disappears, is an interesting place to be. The Tibetan refugee camps have modest monasteries and therein one can see unspoiled Tibetan lifestyle.

Museums, including the Mountain Museum and Pokhara Museum, showcase history and ethnic mosaic of Western Nepal. The natural history museum has a collection of butterflies, insects, birds and models of wildlife. The Mountain Museum is an organised presentation of man, mountains and mountaineering. The project is supported by international alpine clubs with its uniquely modern thematic showcase.

Monuments and temples with Newar architecture indicate its history with the arrival of the business community from Bhaktapur, at the invitation of a Kaski king in mid 17th century. One of the most visited temples in Pokhara is the Bindhabasani temple, with its Bhagwati shrine. The Bhimsen temple with erotic carvings, testifies its age-old relation with Kathmandu valley.

Pokhara has good communication facilities, a modest airport, several multi-national banks, hotels of diverse range, innumerable restaurants offering various delicacies, music bars, etc. There are frequent transport links with Prithvi highway to Kathmandu and Siddhartha highway to Bhairahawa. Connections to various districts make Pokhara an important regional centre. It is linked by air to Kathmandu, Bhairahawa, Bharatpur, Jomsom, Manang and by helicopter to Western Nepal.

Pokhara is a trekker’s and adventure’s paradise. There are long and acclaimed treks from those like Round Annapurna and Thorang pass, to short and memorable treks passing through Ghandruk, Jomsom, Poon hill and Sikles. However, uncontrolled modernisation, poor local transport facilities, and the glaring development gap between the westernised Lakeside and the rest of the valley, are what I’d call the downsides of this place.